The Minervois: France's Hidden Gem

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The Minervois: France's Hidden Gem

by Carol Baird-Krul

France was never high on my list of places to visit, perhaps because it didn’t seem exotic enough. However, that suddenly changed four years ago when my husband’s youngest daughter moved there, and now I consider France a wonderful holiday destination.

In the south of France is one of the most diversified, interesting and lovely areas in the country. Located in the Languedoc Roussillon region, the Minervois with its quaint villages has long been known for wine and olives. Nestled between the Montagne Noir and the foothills of the Pyrennes, this area is rich in history that goes back to before the Roman occupation, and it is a lovely spot to visit at any time of the year. Spring and fall are balmy, with fragrant flowers in the spring and the renowned grape harvest in the fall being special seasonal attractions. The summer months are hot, great for sun worshippers, and although the short days of winter are cool, they can be bright with warm sunshine. Here, away from most major tourist attractions, you will have a truly French experience, which includes such cultural idiosyncrasies as ubiquitous smoking, little spoken English, and a two-hour lunch when all businesses except restaurants shut down, so like everyone else, you can relax and enjoy a leisurely meal.

There are many places of interest, whether you’re a history buff, a gourmand, or simply want to wander the streets and take in the markets. Probably a good starting point is the city of Carcassonne. This city is divided into two parts—the fortified old city and the newer, urban sprawl that lies below it. The magnificent ramparts were completely refurbished in 1853, and although there is some discussion as to the authenticity of the renovation, it is a wonderful place to spend some time appreciating the views or imagining participating in some medieval battle. A UNESCO Heritage site, it is nevertheless a working city, so there are many stores and restaurants to choose from as you wander through its streets, enjoying such things as the sound of children at play at the local school. The newer part of Carcassonne is also charming, and its Saturday market is well worth a visit.

Traces from the past have become attractions of the present, and the Canal du Midi is one of these. An incredible engineering feat even in today’s terms, the waterway was opened in 1681 and transits approximately 235 kilometres of beautiful terrain through 100 locks. It was originally used to transport goods, and now draws tourists who seek peace and quiet on or beside the canal. Several charming villages border the canal and make for good places to stop for lunch or an aperitif whether you’re travelling by boat, car or foot.

Another interesting piece of history that can be seen in the Minervois today are the enclaves that date from the Middle Ages and are tied to the fundamentalist Catholic sect called the Cathars. Probably the most distinctive is the village of Minerve, perched on a ridge high above a gorge that marks the spot where Simon de Montfort massacred the Cathars. Little is left of the fortress that once existed, except for the stunning “candela” which is a single slender tower. The village itself is a pedestrian paradise of winding streets and alleys; a charming museum shows the history of the Cathars and the village. The natural bridge provides an ideal background for such wonderful spectacles as the Son et Lumiere (historical sound and light show) in the summer months. If the river is not too high, it is possible to walk through the tunnel created by the river under the hill near the village. Should the Cathars interest you, contact the tourist bureau of the Languedoc, since they have a good brochure and map that will help you discover more about this strange piece of history by following the Cathars Route.

Equally interesting are the “Circulade” villages—many good examples of these medieval villages which are based on a circle, exist in this region. One of my favourites is Aigne near Minerve. Once you enter one of these villages, you walk in ever decreasing circles until you come to the centre, some of which are quite lovely.

Another option for enjoying this region is the village markets—if you’re a market junkie, you can probably visit a different one every day of the week by going from one village or town to another, as most have a weekly market. These markets are varied in scope and size, some specialize in particular products such as flowers, while others have interesting local products along with clothing and household items.

Enjoy wine and good food? Then you can wander through any of the Minervois towns and villages—where the vast tracts of white limestone soil are prime for grape growing—and visit the local cave (a wine making and storage facility, pronounced “kahv”). Most caves have a tasting room with both red and white wines and nearly every village has at least one restaurant where you can enjoy a tasty lunch or dinner. Some of my favourite villages are Siran, Caunes Minervois, La Liviniere and St. Jean de Minervois. I particularly like to visit St. Jean because the drive to reach the village is delightful and also because I like the wine of a particular vintner. Here you will find a vineyard that specializes in growing the Muscat grape that almost always has a pronounced floral aroma that helps create a wine with an unbelieveable range from dry to sweet.

For another taste of this lovely region, I suggest a visit to the charming village of Bize Minervois near which you’ll find the Oulibo Co-Operative that specializes in the production of the lucque olive that is unique to the Languedoc region. The variety of olive products is quite fascinating and you can spend a half a day just tasting and deciding which olive you like best.

Regardless of whether your interests are antiquities, food and wine, or the present day culture, there is no end of things to see and do in this gem called the Minervois.

A retired teacher-librarian, Carol is a gypsy at heart. Forever curious and enjoying people and places, she has lived and worked in Mexico, China and the UK. She has also travelled for pure pleasure through much of Europe, the western States, South America and Canada. Always a journal writer when travelling, since her retirement Carol has begun to write about her travels.

Getting There
Air Canada, KLM and British Airways all fly to France, either directly or with easy connections. Air France, Air Transat and Zoom Airlines also fly to France from Canada, but only from select cities. You can fly into Paris or, depending on your routing, directly to a large centre, such as Toulouse or Montpelier. If you fly into London you can take RyanAir directly to Carcassone on the edge of the Minervois. Another option is to pick up a car in Paris and drive south or take the TGV high-speed train. For both of these choices, do your research and make your reservations from Canada for the best deals.

Accommodation is not difficult to find in the Minervois regardless of your preference or budget. Rental homes (known as gites), B&Bs and small, owner-operated hotels are spread throughout the area and can be found on the Internet or in magazines. Hotel chains, on the other hand, tend to be found around the larger centers such as Carcassonne. These chains usually have at least three levels of hotels, from the very basic, with shared bathrooms, to more luxurious, and most have restaurants nearby.